Our 1st Movie Night: talking about French-Portuguese integration// Nosso primeiro Movie Night: falando sobre a integração luso-francesa

a-gaiola-dourada

One of our missions in FAJDP, the Federation of Youth Associations of the district of Porto, where we are volunteering, is the organization of one event per month in the Story Board Café, located in its building. We welcomed that mission with enthusiasm and decided to go for a Movie Night for the first one, which took place last Tuesday night.

In order to find the right movie we asked around some advice to some Portuguese friends of ours and all of them recommended “A Gaiola Dourada” (the Gilded Cage in English), a French-Portuguese comedy about a family of Portuguese immigrants living in Paris, which was a big hit in both France and Portugal in 2013.

Uma das nossas missões como voluntárias na Federação das Associações Juvenis do Distrito do Porto é a organização dum evento cada mês no Storyboard Café. Para o nosso primeiro evento decidimos fazer um Movie Night com um filme famoso em Portugal. Várias pessoas recomendaram-nos “ A Gaiola Dourada” (2013), um filme de comédia luso-francês, que trata duma família de emigrantes portugueses em Paris e que teve muito sucesso em França e em Portugal.


The Gilded Cage (2013), by Ruben Alves

A working-class Portuguese couple, Jose and Maria Ribeiro, living as concierges in a very fancy neigbourhood of Paris receives an unexpected inheritance and has to go back to Portugal to get it. But, they have become so indispensable that their employers and friends won’t let them go.  

As the Hollywood Reporter underlines: « The simple but clever paradox at the heart of the screenplay is that the Ribeiros have worked hard for three decades to provide for their family, but that the result of their efforts, namely that they’ve become completely essential for their employers, actually prevents them from potentially enjoying an early retirement. »

Maria e José Ribeiro são um casal de emigrantes portugueses que vivem há mais de 30 anos na sua casa de porteira de um prédio situado num luxuoso bairro de Paris. Maria é a porteira e José é um trabalhador da construção civil. Certo dia, José recebe a notícia de que irá ser herdeiro de uma grande herança do seu irmão que vivia em Portugal. Mas há um grande entrave: a família Ribeiro tornou-se imprescindível, e todos os amigos decidem arranjar um plano à sua maneira para que ela fique.


porto-movie-nightTo begin, let’s underline the fact that our first event went pretty well: we started the night with a glass of wine in Ribeira, the pop-corns were nice, the film started almost in time, the room was full, we heard most people laugh a few times, and the audience was still awake enough to ask some questions during the conversation after the movie! We are now going to prepare out next event, a Turkish Warm-Up and we hope to see you there!

However this article’s main objective is not self-satisfaction but rather to share what we learned and discovered about Portuguese immigrants in France thanks to this event. First, let’s starts with some basic elements about the characteristics of Portuguese immigration in France:

Antes de mais, sublinhamos o facto que o evento correu bastante bem: começámos a noite com um copo de vinho na Ribeira, as pipocas eram boas, o filme começou quase no tempo e ouvimos rir a maioria das pessoas! Agora já estamos a preparar o nosso próximo evento, um Turkish Warm-Up, não se esqueçam!

A few dates and figures about Portuguese immigration in France

HOW MANY? According to the French sociologist Michèle Tribalat, in 2011 there were around 1.5 million people that are Portuguese or with Portuguese origins in France, which represents 2.7% of the French population under 60 years-old.

WHEN? Marie Christine Volovitch-Tavarès, a historian specialized in the field of the portuguese immigration in France, distinguished 3 periods

  • 1916-1931: The first wave. The first immigration wave was due to the first world war. The first political refugees arrived after the 1926’s military coup d’état.
  • 1930-1956: The weak years. A lot of Portuguese went back to their homeland during the 1930’s due to the economic and political crisis in France.
  • 1957-1974: The Portuguese, the biggest group of immigrants in France. With the important economic and industrial growth a lot of workers were needed in France. Most of Portuguese immigrants came from the northern and rural Portugal. 

WHERE? Most Portuguese immigrants settled down in urbanized and industrialized parts of France: A lot of them came in the Parisian region, and lived in slums there during several years in the 1960’s.

Alguns valores e datas sobre a emigração portuguesa em França

QUANTOS? Segundo a socióloga Michele Tribalat, em 2011 havia cerca 1.5 Milão pessoas de Portugal ou com origens portuguesas.

QUANDO? A historiadora francesa Marie-Christine Volovitch-Tavarès estabelece 3 períodos diferentes :

  • 1916-1931: A primeira onda. O primeiro fluxo importante foi causado pela Primeira Guerra Mundial. Os primeiros refugiados políticos chegaram a partir do golpe militar em 1926.
  • 1930-1956: Os anos ocos. Muitos emigrantes portugueses voltaram durante a crise económica e política dos anos 30.
  • 1957-1974: Os Portugueses, o maior grupo de imigrantes em França. Por causa do importante crescimento económico e industrial, a França precisava de muitos trabalhadores. A maior parte dos emigrantes eram das partes rurais do Norte de Portugal.

ONDE? Principalmente nas mais urbanizadas e industrializadas partes de França. Durante os anos 60, muitos emigrantes estavam a viver em bairros de lata, perto de Paris.

The photograph Gérald Bloncourt witnessed Portuguese immigration in France during the 1950’s and 1960’s. Here are some of his pictures that have been shown in the Contemporary Art of Lisbon in 2008.

In line with Story Board Café’s habits we wanted to have a small talk after the movie, with people who had a similar experience: growing up in France with Portuguese origins. Obviously, most of them are still in France but we managed to meet 3 French-Portuguese girls living in Porto or nearby who agreed to share their experience with us and the audience: 

  • Cynthia, French teacher, is now living in her family’s village near Aveiro. Her maternal grand-parents immigrated to France when Portugal was still a dictatorship. Her mother went back to Portugal briefly and married a Portuguese man who quickly decided to immigrate to France himself. Cynthia grew up in a town in the center of France and decided recently to spend one year in Portugal to rediscover her roots. Her parents speak mostly French at home but often mix both languages.
  • Mélanie, Erasmus in Porto. She was born in Portugal and arrived in France when she was a child. She grew up in Paris, near Montmartre, a fancy neighborhood, and, thus, her experience is quite similar to the one presented in the Gilded Cage. Her parents speak Portuguese at home almost all the time and her family is used to come to Portugal every summer.
  • Amanda, Erasmus in Porto. Her father is from Portugal but her mother is fully French. She’s used to come to Portugal every summer but does not speak fluently Portuguese.

Além de mostrar o filme nós organizámos uma pequena conversa com as 3 raparigas luso-francesas para que elas partilhassem as suas experiências.

  • A Cynthia está a viver na aldeia da sua família, perto de Aveiro. Seus avós emigraram em França quando Portugal ainda era uma ditadura. A sua mãe voltou para Portugal mas o marido dela rapidamente decidiu emigrar de volta para França também. A Cynthia cresceu numa cidade pequena no centro da França e decidi passar um ano em Portugal para conhecer mais o seu país de origem.
  • A Mélanie, uma Erasmus no Porto: Ela nasceu em Portugal e chegou em França quando era uma criança. Ela cresceu em Paris, perto de Montmartre, um bairro bastante rico. Portanto a experiência dela foi similar ao filme. Os seus pais falam português em casa e a sua família vai a Portugal todos os Verões.

3-fillesautre

 

The Gilded Cage: full of clichés, yes, but matching the reality

The Gilded cage was very successful and generally appreciated among the French-Portuguese community. One thing that is often underlined is that, indeed, it’s a comedy with a lot of clichés but that they are based on truth and resonate with the experience of a large part of this community. Ruben Alves, the director and scenarist, knows what he’s talking about: his parents were Portuguese concierges.

In a French news website the sociologist Jorge de Portugal Branco noted: 

« It is always a cliché to invest what 1.2 million people have lived. Not all the Portuguese were construction workers or concierges but there are some things that match the life of the community:  the fado, the Porto wine that you give to French when you get back from holidays, the dream to buy a Porsche. There is also a king of paternalism from the French which has sometimes been hurting for those immigrants.”

Melanie, Cynthia and Amanda said more or less the same thing when one girl asked them if the movie was not exaggerated:

It’s pretty much it. Yes it’s full of clichés but we are full of clichés. My mother was a cleaning lady, my father a construction worker. The apartment’s decoration? It’s my house!”

The movie also talks about the clichés that French have about Portuguese immigrants: cleaning lady, construction workers, hairy girls with a mustache, the accent (with a lot of “chhh”). The 3 girls underlined the fact that not all French people are like the snobbish / paternalistic bourgeois we see on the film, but Mélanie recognized some behaviors that she had to face grewing up in a fancy neighbourhood in Paris when her mother was a cleaning lady. 

In France, in which people from diverse countries and regions of the world (Maghreb, Portugal, Sub-Saharan Africa, and Eastern Europe) have been immigrating for several decades, a lot of humorists talk about the specificities of growing up between two countries and cultures. About the French-Portuguese community, the most famous ones are Ro and Cut, a duo posting humoristic videos on Youtube since 2009. Ro, Rodolphe, is from Portugal and Cut, Mohamed, is actually from Algeria. Their videos are mostly famous in France but also in Portugal.

A Gaiola Dourada, cheio de clichés, sim, mas perto da realidade

“A Gaiola Dourada” foi muito apreciado na comunidade luso-francesa. A maior parte reconheceu-se nesta família. Ruben Alves, o director e argumentista do filme, conhece bem o assunto, ele tem pais portugueses e a sua mãe era porteira.

Num site francês, o sociólogo Jorge de Portugal Branco disse que:

“É sempre um cliché de descrever o vivido de 1.2 milhões de pessoas. Mas há coisas que correspondem a este vivido: o fado, o vinho do Porto que tu trazes aos Franceses, o sonho de comprar uma Porsche. Há também um tipo de paternalismo dos Franceses que tem magoado os imigrantes.”

Melanie, Cynthia e Amanda estão de acordo:

“Sim, é cheio de clichés mas somos todos cheios de clichés. A minha mãe era uma mulher-a-dias, o meu pai era um pedreiro. A minha casa tem quase a mesma decoração do que aquela do filme”.

O filme também aborda os clichés que os Franceses têm sobre os Portugueses: mulher-a-dias, pedreiro, raparigas com bigode, o sotaque (com muitos “chhh”).

Em França, há pessoas que vêm de vários países e regiões do mundo. Por isso, as diferenças culturais e o facto de se crescer entre dois países são utilizados por muitos humoristas. Sobre a comunidade luso-francesa os mais famosos são um duo, Ro e Cut que publicam vídeos divertidas no Youtube desde 2009. Ro, Rodolphe, tem origens portuguesas e Cut, Mohamed, é da Argélia.

D’jal, a French humorist with Moroccan origins became famous thanks to his shows playing on clichés about Portuguese immigrates in France, imitating their accent.  

D’jal, um humorista com origens marroquinas, tornou-se famoso com seus sketches sobre os imigrantes Portugueses e o sotaque deles.

Education: cultural and intergenerational differences

In the movie the educational gap between Jose´s boss’ family and the Ribeiros is obvious: the French family is very “cool” when the Ribeiros put a lot of pressure on their children to behave well and be hard-workers. Their adult daughter, who still live at their place, is afraid of telling them she has a non-portuguese boyfriend etc. This gap reaches its peak when Jose gave his daughter her slap in front of his boss.

Cynthia told us that this difference between the strict education she was given and the education of her French friends was always obvious for her: she was not allowed to go out to meet her friends, she waited a long time before telling her parents she had a boyfriend etc. She respected these rules but felt more free in school where she could do a lot of things that were “forbidden” at home.

The ideal boyfriend for my parents would be a hard-working, Christian Portuguese.”

But she also pointed out another gap, not shown in the movie: the one between the rigid education her parents gave her and the evolutions that have been taking place in Portugal.

My parents repeated with us the same educational pattern they experienced as children, but in the meantime, my family in Portugal was evolving with the Portuguese society: my cousin could have tattoos before me, and now I can see that it is way more accepted to have girlfriends and boyfriends. Since I’ve been living here I can also see that gender equality has been increasing.

Educação: diferenças culturais e geracionais

O filme mostra as diferenças na educação entre a família portuguesa e a família francesa. No lado francês, os pais são mais relaxados e abertos enquanto a educação portuguesa é mais tradicional: por exemplo a filha, que é adulta, tem um pouco medo de apresentar o seu namorado aos seus pais.

Cynthia disse que esta diferença era muito óbvia para ela quando ela estava a crescer. Sua família era muito mais severa do que as famílias das suas amigas. Ela sentia-se mais livre na escola onde ela podia fazer algumas coisas que eram proibidas em casa.

“ Para meus pais, o namorado perfeito seria um rapaz trabalhador, cristão e português!”

Alem disso, ela apontou um outro fosso educacional que não é mostrado no filme: aquele que tem-se escavado entre a educação severa dos pais dela e as evoluções que estavam a acontecer em Portugal.

“Os meus pais reproduziram connosco a mesma educação que eles tinham recibo, mas ao mesmo tempo a nossa família em Portugal estava a evoluir com a sociedade portuguesa: minha prima pôde ter uma tatuagem antes de mim por exemplo. E agora eu vejo que eles podem apresentar os namorados sem problema. Eu também posso ver que a igualdade entre as mulheres e os homens tem progredido.”

Football and Portuguese identity (and pride)

pauleta_thumbs_upFootball is a very important deal in Portugal and it is present in the Gilded Cage through the apparition of Pauleta, former player of the Seleção and of the Parisian football club PSG. When asked if football was really important in the education of French-Portuguese children, especially boys, Cynthia answered: 

“My father hated the fact that my brother was not into football. As a consequence he put everything on me, I am an addict now! Maybe the importance of football in Portugal is due to the fact that it is pretty much the only sport where Portugal is doing really good.”

Together with Amanda and Mélanie they also underlined that a very large majority of French-Portuguese people strongly support Portugal over France in football:

I think every French-Portuguese supports Portugal in football. Since we are children we are taught to support it. I’m fully French but I enjoyed watching Portugal beating France in France.”

This was very obvious last summer when Portugal beat France during the final of the European Football Cup in Paris. Portugal’s victory was celebrated in many parts of France but these demonstrations were not always welcomed with fair-play by French-French supporters. Amanda was in Paris, supporting Portugal, and told me she did not expect such aggressiveness. But that did not prevent them to celebrate loudly, as you can see here in Paris: 

O futebol e a identidade portuguesa

O futebol, uma coisa muito importante em Portugal, está presente no filme também com a aparição do Pauleta, que foi um jogador famoso da Selecção e do Clube de Paris PSG.

Mélanie, Amelia e Cynthia sublinham que a maior parte das imigrantes portugueses apoiam profundamente a equipa de Portugal:

“Acho que todos os luso-franceses apoiam Portugal no futebol. Desde a infância, ensinaram-nos a apoiar Portugal. Sou francesa mas gostei muito de ver a vitória de Portugal em França.”

Isso foi muito evidente no verão passado, no momento da vitória do Portugal em Paris. Houve muitas manifestações nas ruas, como neste vídeo:

Ro and Cut also celebrated in their own way:

Ro e Cut também celebraram:

 


Let’s not change good habits and conclude this post with music! Linda de Suza left her homeland, Portugal for France in the 1970s. In the late 1970s she managed to record music albums, mainly fado and popular song in both French and Portuguese. Here is one of her song that you can hear in th Gilded Cage: “L’Etrangère”, meaning the foreigner in French. 

Linda de Suza é uma cantora luso-francesa, que chegou à França nos anos 1970. Ela principalmente cantou fado e canções populares. Aqui está uma das canções dela “L’Etrangère”, a estrangeira em português, que está na Gaiola Dourada.

 

Advertisements

Welcoming Erasmus students : a small chat with Rafael and Nuno from ESN

NB: Há uma versão da entrevista em português no fim do artigo. 

Erasmus events have played a great role in our social integration in Porto and we wouldn’t know a lot of our friends (big up) without them! However we always told ourselves that we would get tired pretty fast of always being surrounded by noisy and excited Erasmus people. We thought that an interview with some members of ESN would be a good way to understand their motivations, as well as to make them share with us some of their favorite spots here.

IMG_6348.JPG

Porto Pulses: Can you present yourself briefly and explain what led you to join ESN Porto?

Rafael: I am not originally from Porto but from Viseu, a smaller city, in the center of Portugal, I study veterinary sciences. I have been part of ESN for one year now, and, apparently, I am the President!

I joined the buddy program in 2011, and since then I’ve always had several buddies every semester, I even ended up living with Erasmus. So actually I have been doing the job of an ESN member with my Erasmus friends for a long time: showing them the city, the good spots etc. 

Besides, I am also the president of the Portuguese Association of Protection of Living Beings. I funded it when I was 21. I always cared about the environment, probably because I grew up in the countryside, with animals. Thus, I always had that conscious.  But now I don’t have time anymore for this association.   

Nuno: I’m Nuno, I am 21 years old. I study music production:  I started in Lisbon and last year I came back studying in Porto, my city.

I am quite new in ESN; I only joined like one month ago. Why ESN? Well, I have a difficult personality, I need to do a lot of things all the time or else I get bored. Last year I did an Interrail by myself and I enjoyed it very much. When I went back I got an invitation from a friend about ESN and I decided to try: I did and I liked it!  For me it is more a way to meet people who do a lot of things, and to be part of this dynamic. It’s more personal and less about showing my city to Erasmus.

I belong to the “Project team”: it is a team more social, which is in charge of the volunteering activities. Our 1st activity this year was the solidarity barbecue whose profits were given to the firemen. Our next main project is the organization of the Social week in November, it is an international ESN project which means that this week is happening in all ESNs of Europe. It is about creating links between local associations and Erasmus. Each day will be dedicated to a specific theme (environment, poverty etc).

We are also working in another international ESN project, MapAbility which aims at creating a map of the accessibility and services provided by European Higher Education Institutions for students with disabilities.

PP: What is the role of ESN international and when was it created?

R: ESN international was created in 1990, its head office is in Brussels and the ESN of every country is represented there. The creation of ESN was a response to the need of a better support to Erasmus students in their hosting university.

They are several international projects, and each ESN section is more or less free to implement it at its own level.

PP: What have you learned by being part of the ESN and meeting people from so many countries?

R: I would say that what I mostly learned through the contact of Erasmus is to have a different perspective of the world; you see that at a personal level, it’s quite easy to get along with people from everywhere.

N: I feel the same more or less; the experiences I like to have the most are the ones that make you feel like we are all pretty much the same, more than the ones that underline our cultural differences.

PP: What has been your favorite ESN event until now?

R: The Erasmus National Meeting in Algarve, last April: it is a gathering of all the ESN sessions of Portugal and it is opened to all Erasmus of the country. It was my first meeting with other sections of Portugal and actually ESN Porto is one of the biggest and more experiences section of the country and I enjoy sharing my experiences with others. But the National Meeting was not about that, it was about having fun, it’s like Spring Break for us!

And I enjoyed organizing the Portuguese night, it was a lot of work but it was rewarding. I gathered Portuguese typical bands, fado music, Portuguese food etc.

PP: What do you want to share with Erasmus students about Portugal and Porto?

R: Mainly our gastronomy and I also like to show a little bit of our history throughout the trips that we organize.

N: In Porto there are a lot of small cool spaces, for me they are the best ones, over the big events, festivals etc. I would say that my favorite bar is Maus Hábitos (bad habits in English): small bands can play there and it is a cool place for the arts in general.  

PP: Is it sometimes difficult for you to always be smiling and welcoming in ESN events?

N: I don’t smile all the time, I don’t care. The trick is to be normal all the time. I am joking of course!

R: I’m a quiet guy but I am also a positive person, my nature is to be nice to people so actually it is OK for me. I sometimes feel tired doing bureaucratic stuff but I love being with Erasmus people.

PP: How do you feel about the civic involvment of young people in Portugal ?

R: In 2012, one year after I founded my association, Braga was the European Youth Capital and I represented Viseu there. We were discussing exactly that: how can we get young people more involved in youth associations. Our conclusion was that it was by showing how good it can be, through examples. But I feel like it’s getting more common in Portugal to be involved in associations, in university there a lot of groups that students can join. About politics, the 2 parties system and the importance of EU rules make it difficult to be motivated.  

PP: Where to go on a date in Porto?

R: Museu d’Avó, a tapas restaurant, the deco is awesome, the staff is really nice. It is small and very cozy, perfect for a date. 

N: For me, a place with a good view, like Palácio de Cristal or Virtudes, if it’s not raining of course.

PP: Where to have a beer with a few good friends on a Sunday night?

R: Pipa Velha !

N: Definitely not in the city center.  I live near Matosinhos, there are a lot of coffees with a nice view on the beach.

PP: What Portuguese bands / singers should we listen to?

N: Miguel Araújo, António Zambujo, Rui Veloso, Jorge Palma.

N: Quim Barreiros! His lyrics are very funny, young people listen to him mainly for his lyrics.

A Cabritinha (2004)

We checked the lyrics of one of his biggest hits, “A Cabritinha”, they are indeed quite priceless!

“Quando eu nasci a minha mãe não tinha leite
Fui criado como um bezerro rejeitado
Mamei em vacas em tudo que tinha peito
E cresci assim deste jeito
Fiquei mal habituado

Hoje sou homem e arranjei uma cabritinha
E passo o dia a mamar
Nos peitinhos da Fofinha

Eu gosto de mamar
Nos peitos da Cabritinha”

« When I was born my mother didn’t have milk / I was created like a rejected  calf / I sucked at cows at everything that had a brest / I grew up in this way / I kept bad habits.

Today I am a man and I got a little goat / And spend the day sucking at / The brest of the cutie.

I like to suck at the brest of the little goat »

R: In a Julio Iglesias’ style we have Tony Carreira, he is a star! His songs are very romantic, old women love him !

PP: To conclude, we asked them to share with us their favorite Portuguese proverb. After a very long brain-storming, hee is what we got from them: 


Em Portugês: 

Porto Pulses: Podem apresentar-vos brevemente e explicar porque decidiram fazer parte da ESN?

Rafael: Sou de Viseu, uma cidade mais pequena do que o Porto, no centro do país. Estou a estudar Ciências Veterinárias. Eu tenho feito parte da ESN há um ano e parece que sou o Presidente.

Eu comecei a participar no Programa Buddy em 2011, e desde então, eu sempre tenho tido vários buddies. Então, agora, como Presidente da ESN só estou a fazer as mesmas coisas que antes: mostrar o Porto aos Erasmus.

Além disso, sou também o presidente da Associação Portuguesa da Defesa dos Seres Vivos, uma associação que eu criei quando tinha 21 anos. Eu sempre estive interessado pelo ambiente, provavelmente porque eu cresci no campo, com animais. Mas agora não tenho tempo para esta associação.

Nuno: Sou o Nuno, tenho 21 anos. Estou a estudar produção musical no Porto, a minha cidade. Sou bastante novo na ESN, juntei-me à equipa há um mês porque sempre quero fazer muitas coisas novas, senão fico entediado rapidamente. No meu caso fazer parte da ESN é uma coisa mais pessoal, é uma maneira de conhecer muitas pessoas e de descobrir novas atividades.

Eu faço parte da equipa de projetos. É uma equipa mais social,  responsável pelas atividades de voluntariado. A nossa primeira atividade foi o churrasco de solidariedade com os bombeiros. O próximo projeto é a organização da Semana Social em novembro. Esta semana acontece na Europa inteira e o seu objetivo é de criar ligações entre os Erasmus e as associações locais.   

Estamos também a trabalhar num outro projeto da ESN internacional, sobre a acessibilidade das universidades para os estudantes com mobilidade reduzida.

PP: O que é a função da ESN internacional e quando foi criada?

R: A ESN internacional foi criada em 1990, a sua sede fica em Bruxelas e a ESN de cada país é aí representada. A criação da ESN internacional era uma resposta à necessidade dum apoio mais forte para os estudantes Erasmus.

PP: O que é que vocês têm aprendido pelo conhecimento de pessoas de muitos países?

R: Principalmente, acho que tenho aprendido a ter uma nova perspetiva do mundo. Eu vi que, ao nível pessoal, é bastante fácil de me dar bem com todos.

N: Para mim, é mais ou menos a mesma coisa:  as minhas experiências preferidas são aquelas que sublinham as nossas similaridades.

PP: Qual foi o vosso evento preferido até agora?

R: O Encontro Nacional dos Erasmus no Algarve, em abril de 2016: é uma reunião de todas as secções ESN de Portugal. De facto, a secção do Porto é uma das maiores e experientes de Portugal e eu gosto muito desta partilha com as outras.

Eu também gostei de organizar a Noite Portuguesa, com comida, e vários músicos. Eu trabalhei muito mas foi gratificante.

PP: O que querem partilhar com os Erasmus sobre Portugal e o Porto?  

R: Principalmente a nossa gastronomia e eu também gosto de mostrar um pouco da nossa história pelas viagens que organizamos.

N: No Porto, há muitos espaços pequenos e fixes! Para mim, eles são os melhores. Diria que o meu bar preferido é o Maus Hábitos, um lugar muito fixe para as artes.  

PP: Ficam às vezes um pouco cansados de terem de estar sempre a sorrir nos eventos da ESN?  

N: Eu não estou sempre a sorrir. O truque é estar sempre normal. Estou a brincar, claro!

R: Sou calmo mas sou também uma pessoa positiva. Sou naturalmente simpático com os outros. Às vezes as tarefas administrativas podem cansar-me mas adoro estar com os Erasmus!

PP: O que pensam da implicação cívica dos jovens Portugueses?

R: Em 2012, um ano depois da criação da minha associação, Braga foi a Capital Europeia da Juventude. Nós conversámos sobre isso mesmo: como incentivar a juventude a implicar-se mais nas associações? A nossa conclusão foi que o melhor meio seria de mostrar-lhes, com exemplos, que trabalhar numa associação é muito bom a muitos níveis. Sobre a política, temos um sistema com dois partidos e há muitas regras da União Europeia, portanto é difícil ter muita motivação.

PP: Onde se pode ter um encontro no Porto?

R: No Museu d’Avó, um restaurante de tapas muito confortável e acolhedor. A decoração é fantástica!

N: Para mim, um lugar com uma vista bonita, tipo o Palácio de Cristal ou as Virtudes.

PPOnde se toma uma cerveja com alguns amigos ao domingo no Porto?  

R: Pipa Velha !

N: Eu vivo perto de Matosinhos, há muitos cafés com uma vista linda na praia.

PP: Que grupos de música / cantores deveríamos ouvir?

N: Miguel Araújo, António Zambujo, Rui Veloso, Jorge Palma. Quim Barreiros! As letras do Quim Barreiros são muito engraçadas!

R: Há também Tony Carreira, num tipo de Julio Iglésias. Ele é uma estrela aqui! As suas canções são muito românticas.

 

Madeira island : Portugal in the middle of the ocean // A Madeira : Portugal no meio do oceano

20161008_151914-1
Com amigos voluntarios

3 weeks ago we attended a two-days training in the week-end about social media. It was all in portuguese so we did not manage to understand everything, but it allowed us to have a 5 days break last week. After a quick brainstorming, Madeira appeared to us as a perfect option : good weather, beautiful landscapes, nice wine, discovering Cristiano Ronaldo’s home, and, last but not least, we already have friends there, other volunteers that we met during our training in Braga !

// Graças ao dia da implantação da República e à formação sobre os redes sociais que fizemos há 3 semanas, temos 5 dias de ferias na semana passada. A escolha não foi muito difícil : o sol, o oceano, paisagens lindas, vinho, Cristiano,  e amigos conhecidos na Braga ? Vamos à Madeira !

  A few dates and figures about Madeira

  • Madeira Island belongs to a 5 islands archipelago, and represents 90% of the lands of this archipelago. 
  • 1420-1425 : Beginning of the occupation of the archipel by the Portuguese
  • 1976 (creation of the Republic): Madeira, as the Azores, became an autonomous region of the Republic of Portugal, under the Portuguese name Região Autónoma da Madeira
  • Population (2014)258 686  inhabitants in 2014: – 3.5% since 2010, when its population reached its peak. Since then, the island has a negative net migration : people leaving Madeira are more numerous than people moving there. 
  • Tourism : in 2015 1 028 723 guests have been hosted in touristic establishments, exceeding the previous 2008, pre-crisis, record of 1 013 281 guests.

graph-touristes-madere

graph-population-madere

madere

Madeira : delights and splendors of tropical Portugal // A Madeira: sabores e esplendores do Portugal tropical 

 

FOOD / COMIDA

Every destination is so much better if the food is good, and Madeira will not let you down. You will find both typical Portuguese food (padarias, pasteis de nata, bacalhau etc) but Madeira has also its own specialties, due to the proximity of the ocean, and its tropical climate. Here are some examples of typical food you should try if you visit the island.

// Uma viagem é sempre melhor com boa comida, deste ponto de vista, vocês não vão ficar desiludidos! Além dos pratos típicos portugueses, a Madeira oferece muitas especialidades locais, por causa do clima tropical e da proximidade do oceano. Aqui estão algumas especialidades que vocês deveriam experimentar se forem lá.

IMG_0131.JPG

STREET FOOD

Wherever you are in Madeira, you’re bound to notice the local bread, bolo de caco. This traditional bread from Madeira is often served with a very nice melted garlic butter. It also makes tasty sandwiches and you can add cheese, bacon, meat or tuna. 

// Em qualquer sítio da Madeira, podem encontrar o pão local: bolo do caco. Este pão tradicional é habitualmente acompanhado dum bom molho com manteiga e alho. Ele também é utilizado para fazer sandes com queijo, bacon, carne ou atum.

  

14697337_10155240026064325_1474918012_oESPETADA

Espetada is small meat pieces skewered on a wooden stick and often served in picnics in Madeira. We tasted it in Lord of Miracles Festival in Machico’s cute center. Unfortunately the meat was pretty chewy, our guide told us it was quite common when you are a tourist : be more careful than us !

A espetada é feita de pequenos pedaços de carne num pau de madeira. Nós provámo-lo na Festa do Senhor dos Milagres, no Machico, uma aldeia linda. Infelizmente, a carne era borracha. A guia disse-nos que isto acontece frequentemente aos turistas.

IMG_0250.JPG

ESPADA

If Madeirenses eat bacalhau, as every regular Portuguese, the most representative, and very ugly, fish of the island is espada. We tried it in a restaurant near Santana (north of the island), called Grutas do Faial. It was served with a cooked banana and maracuja sauce, a delicious sweet and sour option.

O peixe mais famoso da Madeira é o peixe espada preto, um peixe bastante feio mas saboroso. Experimentámo-lo num restaurante,  no Grutas do Faial, perto da Santana, no norte da ilha. Ele estava acompanhado duma banana e dum molho de maracujá, uma opção muita boa!

img_0171

 FRUITS // FRUTA

We wandered into Marcado dos Lavradores, a touristic, thus expensive, market where you can admire the colorful displays of tropical fruits. On the picture on the right is a set of a passion fruits, that have been mixed with other fruits for generations.img_0166 We tried maracuja with tomato, ananas and lemon and they all were delicious… but cost 2 €/piece. 

The weirdest fruit of all was the banana pineapple. It has a scaly green skin and chunky white flesh that tastes exactly like a cross between its two namesakes.   

// Passeámos no Mercado dos Lavradores, um mercado muito turístico e bastante caro, onde uma grande variedade de frutos tropicais está exposta. Experimentámos vários maracujás que tinham sido cruzados com outros frutos: limão, ananás etc. 2 € cada!

DRINKS

Despite its small size, Madeira offers an impressive choice of tasty and sweet alcoholic drinks. We thought it was our duty to taste them !

// Apesar do pequeno tamanho, a Madeira tem muitas bebidas doces e saborosas locais.

poncha

                      Poncha

Madeira grows sugar cane and mostly uses it to produce sugarcane rum, which is used for its best local drink : the Poncha! They are 4 different types but we only tried 2: Pescador (limon, sugar and ice) and Regional, our favorite,  (honey, limon and orange juice). Price: 2 -4 €.

// A Madeira produz açúcar de cana e utiliza uma grande parte desta produção para fazer a sua famosa aguardente. Esta aguardente é utilizada na nossa preferida bebida: a Poncha! Há 4 tipos de poncha, experimentámos 2: a Regional (com mel) e o Pescador (a mais forte).

14625678_10155240036744325_1904709916_o

                       NIKITA

Nikita is a creamy drink made with vanilla ice cream mixed first with pineapple juice, and then sugar and beer. There is also a non-alcoholic version. Price: 2 -3 €

// A Nikita é uma bebida muito doce, cremosa, feita com gelado de baunilha, sumo de ananás, açúcar e cerveja. Para nós, é mais sobremesa do que bebida. Tem também uma versão sem álcool.ffcd59303318a504d4917ed4a7c57824

                                             CORAL

The local lager, Coral, has been brewed on Madeira since 1872. It’s more flavoursome and easier to drink than mainland Portugal’s most famous brands, Sagres and Superbock. Slightly darker and less gassy,Coral tastes stronger than it is (5.3% ABV). Price: 1-2€

// A cerveja local chama-se Coral. Ela foi criada em 1872 e tem um gosto mais forte do que as mais famosas cervejas de Portugal continental, Sagres e Super Bock. Preço: 1-2 €.

img_0036

BRISA

Brisa is a non-alcoholic fizzy drink, also very popular and that come in a range of flavours: passion fruit, apple, lemon and orange. Our favourite is “Brisa Maracujá” created in 1970, it was the first soft drink in the world based on pure passion fruit juice. Price: 0,90 Cents.

// A Brisa é uma bebida com gás e sem álcool, disponível com vários aromas: maracujá, maçã, limão e laranja. A nossa favorita, obviamente, é de maracujá! Preço: 0.9€

                                  

                                    Madeira Wine (Vinho da Madeira)

Madeira wine is the most exported product of the island, followed by bananas. It is produced in a variety of styles ranging from dry wines which can be consumed on their own as an aperitif, to sweet wines more usually consumed with dessert.

img_0120

img_0185

A tour of the Blandy’s Wine Lodge can be a good way to discover more about it. 

// O Vinho da Madeira é o produto mais exportado da Madeira. Há vários tipos: doce, semi-doce, semi-seco, seco. Os mais doces são para aperitivo ou sobremesa; os outros podem acompanhar a refeição

LANDSCAPES / PAISAGENS

Apart from Funchal, the capital, where we were sleeping, we visited several of the very numerous places of the island. Madeira is really stunning for its diversity of landscapes: tropical style with banana plantations, dense forests, mountains, beaches, cute villages etc. We discovered them during an excursion in a mini-van but the island is very famous for its “levadas”, hikes that can be done by foot or by bike.

// Além do Funchal, a capital, visitámos vários lugares lindos. A Madeira tem uma variedade incrível de paisagens: montanhas, praias, aldeias, florestas, plantações de bananas, etc. Não tivemos muito tempo, por isso escolhemos fazer uma excursão com uma mini-van, mas seria provavelmente melhor descobrir essas paisagens a pé ou de bicicleta, seguindo as levadas.

 Câmara de Lobos

14689754_10155240040184325_1738838694_o
The fishing boats on the beach of Camara de Lobos

Câmara de Lobos is a pretty fishing town that is located on the south-eastern side of Madeira. From there, we went to the Mirador Cabo Girão, the highest mirador of Europe. The view is nice, but not as impressive as we expected, probably because of the numerous clouds that day. To get here we took a touristic train (7.5 €) full of old but energetic people.

// A Câmara de Lobos é uma aldeia bonita de pescadores, no sudeste da ilha. A partir dali, apanhámos um comboio pequeno para ir ao miradouro Cabo Girão, o mais elevado miradouro da Europa.

 Pico do Arieiro

14647364_10155240027124325_1211368704_o

Pico do Arieiro is the third highest peak in the island of Madeira (1818 metres) and will offer you one the most wonderful landscape you have ever seen.

// O Pico do Arieiro é o terceiro lugar mais elevado da Madeira (1818 metros). A vista é incrível.

14689250_10155240027054325_2021573698_o

Traditional Santana Houses

Santana is a village located on the  north coast, it is characterised by its small thatched triangular houses, where you can buy some artisanal products. 

// Santana é uma aldeia que fica no norte da ilha, e que se caracteriza por casas pequenas e triangulares.

IMG_0257.JPG

Living in Madeira : welcoming tourists and  insular mentality // Viver na Madeira : abertura aos turistas e mentalidade insular

In order to keep practicing my Portuguese, as well as to know more about Madeira’s inhabitants, I (Anouck) tried to go and talk to Madeirenses as much as I could. A large majority of them was very welcoming, easy to access and willing to answer my questions, which were mostly about their life in Madeira, and their vision of continental Portugal, especially Porto. Unfortunately, I realized afterwards that I often forgot to ask people’s names, probably focusing too much on understanding their answers.Let’s call that my beginner’s mistake !

// A fim de melhorar o meu português e de conhecer mais os habitantes da ilha, eu (Anouck) tentei falar com Madeirenses tanto quanto possível. Uma grande maioria foi muito acessível e simpática. Infelizmente, eu apercebi-me demasiado cedo de que me esqueci de perguntar os nomes deles!

A restricted but comfortable horizon // Um horizonte restrito mas confortável

Most of the Madeirenses I talked to underlined the specificity on living in a small island : “it’s an island , everyone knows everyone here“. Thus, despite the large flows of tourists during all year, there is a strong and shared feeling of living in a small community. For some, it is synonym with restricted opportunities and the feeling of being watched and judged. Several students we met told us they were thinking of leaving to the continent. There is indeed a large number of young Madeirenses who choose to study in continental Portugal, or abroad, and never come back. 

In Porto or Lisboa people are free, they don’t care about what people do not, here people like to talk about each other

But others told us they would never leave the island precisely because they don’t want to leave this community :

I spent 3 months in Porto and I did not like it, I felt lost. Here I know  everything, everybody, where to go, where to not go

// A maior parte dos Madeirenses que nós encontrámos sublinharam a especificidade da vida numa ilha: “Aqui, todo o mundo conhece todo o mundo”. Apesar dos grandes fluxos de turistas, os Madeirenses têm um sentido forte de comunidade, vivendo numa comunidade pequena. Para alguns, isso é sinónimo de oportunidades restritas, de bisbilhotice e de julgamento. Efetivamente, muitos jovens decidem partir para estudar em Portugal continental e não voltam. “ No Porto, ou em Lisboa, as pessoas são mais livres, eles não se preocupam demasiado com o que as outras pessoas pensam”.

Mas algumas pessoas disseram-me que nunca partiriam, precisamente porque não querem deixar a comunidade. “ Passei 3 meses no Porto, não gostei nada, aqui conheço todos os lugares, toda a gente”.

Madeirenses’ views of Porto // As visões  que os Madeirenses têm sobre o Porto

My usual question // Minha pergunta habitual

” What are the first 3 things that come to your mind when talking about Porto ? // Quais são as três primerias coisas que você pensa em quando falar sobre o Porto ?”

20161006_103902
3 young students at Gigi Sumos’ terrace

The river // O Rio

The University of Porto // A universidade do Porto

The beautiful architecture  // A arquitectura muita bonita 

 

 

20161005_225109
2 empregados do bar Marcelino

O Metro

The accent // O sotaque

As Francesinhas

FC Porto

Torre dos Clerigos

Nice people // Pessoas simpáticas

20161008_151419-2
Louisa, our touristic guide

The river // O Rio

O vinho do Porto

City rehabilitation and tourism // A reabilitação da cidade e o turismo

20161007_161001-1
Seller in Mercado

FC Porto

O vinho do Porto 

The accent // O sotaque


Here are some sociological conclusions drawns thanks to this very representative sample : it seems that men are more sensitive to football, when women appreciate a lot the architectural assets of Porto. As for wine, it reaches a gender consensus ! 

 // Esta amostra permitiu-nos fazer algumas observações sociológicas: os homens parecem mais interessados pelo futebol, as mulheres são mais sensíveis à beleza da cidade. O amor pelo vinho é partilhado.

But Madeira is also about … // Mas a Madeira é também…

Cristiano Rooonaldooo

Cristiano Ronaldo was born in 1985 in Funchal and spent his childhood in Madeira, before going to train in Lisbon and becoming the tremendous football star we all know. Despite his early departure, he always expressed his deep affection to his island, notably last summer by offering financial, and very publicized, financial support when Madeira was partly damaged by huge fires.

img_0133

Most Madeirenses are very proud of him and he appears to be an asset for tourism, especially to attract families with young kids. The opening of the CR7 museum, by his brother and himself, is a good example of this win-win relationship. It was opened in 2013. We visited it (5€), and, let’s be honest, looking at all his league cups, golden boots and club trophies can only be interesting if you’re a really big fan and/or a child. Nevertheless we still managed to have some fun there :

And the love story is far from fading: the President of Madeira, Miguel Albuquerque, announced right after Portugal’s victory in the European football championship that the airport would be soon renamed “Cristiano Ronaldo airport”!

// O Cristiano Ronaldo nasceu em 1985 no Funchal e passou a sua infância na Madeira antes de se tornar uma grande estrela do futebol mundial. Ele tem mostrado sempre apego à sua ilha natal: a sua ajuda financeira para os estragos dos incêndios é um exemplo.

Ele também aparece como um trunfo para aumentar o turismo, especialmente de famílias com crianças. O museu CR7 foi inaugurado em 2013 pelo Cristiano e o irmão dele. Visitámo-lo (5€): não vai ser muito interessante se vocês não forem grandes fãs ou crianças. Mas conseguimos aproveitar:

Esta história de amor não está terminada: o Presidente da Madeira anunciou que o nome do aeroporto se vai chamar “Cristiano Ronaldo”!

Surprising pieces of arts // Obras de arte surpreendentes

We noticed that Funchal’s city center is very rich of paintings and sculptures. For instance, doors of Rua Santa Maria, a narrow street full of touristic restaurants, are all painted in a very original way : the contrast between some of these paintings and the tourists, 65 years-old in average, who are eating next to them can be pretty amusing :

// Observámos que há muitas obras de arte no Funchal. Por exemplo, na rua Santa Maria, uma rua cheia de restaurantes turísticos, todas as portas estão pintadas. Algumas são muito originais:

14647209_10155240037629325_1705992581_o

14689313_10155240037389325_1345998814_o

We also enjoyed the diversity of the artistic ornements that can be found in Monte Jardim Tropical (20 minutes from the center by bus).

// Apreciamos também a grande diversidade dos ornamentos artísticos do Monte Jardim Tropical :

14697321_10155240038114325_141193121_o

It’s always nice to conclude with some music, here is a song of the girls’ traditional music band of the University, enjoy :

Discovering alternative Porto /A descobra do Porto alternativo

img_6235NB: Há uma versão curta em português no fim do artigo

We met Patricia last week for a project about enhancing intercultural tolerance among children, in which FAJDP is collaborating. As she was leaving, she mentioned that her association, ContraBando, was organizing an alternative tour of Porto for its first anniversary on Sunday. I thought it would be a perfect occasion to improve my Portuguese, to discover unknown places in Porto and to meet interesting people. It turned out that the guide, Gui, speaks French and English perfectly and (fortunately in retrospect) translated everything. But I did get to meet a group of far-left activists who taught me a lot about the protests and movements that happened during the past few years in Porto and in Portugal, as well as I discovered unexpected and beautiful places, out of the famous city center.

ContraBando: a group of activists aiming at boosting Porto’s cultural and political alternative movements

The association ContraBando was born in July 2015, funded by activists with different interests: access to housing, feminism, LGBT rights, climate change, wanting to “create new forms of activism, create bridges among experiences, re-invent organization patterns of the city to fight austerity”. 

The creation of ContraBando, which is a collective of people but also a concrete space, was both the result of:

The several activits that I met during the tour, whether they belong to Contrabando or not, regret the fact that inhabitants of Porto are not more involved in the political debate. They see Contrabando as a way to raise awareness and interest for the questions they ask, the issues they point out and the solutions they propose. Thus, they organize numerous events: conferences, movies, debates, demonstrations etc. One of their most significant and publicized action was the organization of the Festival Feminista do Porto last october, which should be repeated next year.


Here is a list of associations that are close to ContreBando’s views, given by Patricia. Even if you don’t share all their ideas, these spaces seem to all have an original and identity and to organize interesting events, it could be worth to go  and have a look :

Espaço Compasso (workshops, cultural and artistic events), Rés-da-Rua (collective diners,  workshops, concerts), Gato Vadio (book store, debates, movies), Casa da Horta (vegan food, concerts), Confederação (theatre, cinema)


The Worst Tours: architects of Porto with alternative analysis, stances and proposals

The Worst Tours is an association of 3 architects of Porto, Gui, Pedro and Isabel, organizing alternative tours of their city. They started these tours in an informal way in the end of 2012, as a response to the “economic destruction” of the city

“Kids of the recession present: the f*ck-it-all concept. Portugal, 2014. Austerity Killed the economy. The movie was bad and the sequels are even worse …  Fancy a walk?”

Their initiative was successful and quite publicized, alternative websites but also touristic sites and famous Anglo-Saxon newspapers made an article about it. A few months ago, they decided to take a step forward: they turned into an association and settled down their activity in a “kiosque”, rented from the City Hall, near the Jardim San Lazaro, which allows them to adress directly people in the street.

The tour lasted 4 hours, and Gui talks really fast because she has a lot to say, so I will no sum up everything here (which, besides, wouldn’t be a very good incentive for you to go and see for yourself !). I will only sum up the main ideas that she developed a during this tour, always illustrating and reinforcing them with drawings, maps, articles, and elements of urban economy and sociology.

Gentrification and the industry of tourism

The process of gentrification is just getting started in Porto, way after most of the big european cities. The renewal and renovation of the city center is correlated with the tremendous growth of tourism that Porto has been undergoing. In 3 or 4 years the prices of the housing market raised significantly, even if they remain low compared to european standards. It is interesting to note that the ilhas, a type of urbanization developed for the workers in the 19th, could be an obstacle to the gentrification process by allowing people with low income to remain in the city center, since they remain cheap due to their specificities (see above).


Ilhas in Porto
“An ilha is a type of collective housing typical of Porto. It is a private space composed by many tiny houses located inside the neighbourhoods quarters, in the backyards of the bourgeois houses of the 19th century.
The ilhas have commonly 10-12 houses in each side of a narrow (1,20m) and long corridor that leads to the street. The ilhas emerged as an immediate response to the lack of housing for accommodating the large numbers of rural population arriving to Porto in the mid 19th century, to work in the new factories of the recent industrialization.”

ilha-schema


 

Austerity, impoverishment and shrinking shops

She also underlines that shops keep closing at an alarming pace in Porto, and blames the austerity policies, encouraged by the EU, for having considerably reduced the standards of living, the purchasing power of its inhabitants, consequently reducing considerably the local market.

Abandoned spaces, property rights and taxes

There are a lot of abandoned spaces and buildings in Porto, we went through several of them during the tour. Gui and her colleagues advocate raising taxes on owners of these unused spaces in order to create an incentive for them to sell them so that they can benefit the population, according to its needs and ideas.

img_6210
Uma ilha
img_6191
One store to sell
photo-tag
Street art in an abandoned place
photo-friche
Former industrial site

As Gui explained, the ” a bit unrealistic but let’s try way anyway” goal of the Worst Tours  is to make people from different cities, including Porto, meet and talk about urban and socio-economic processes happening where they live, of interesting solutions that have been implemented etc. This sharing of experiences should be a way to avoid making the same mistakes that have been done in other cities. But Gui admits that for now they haven’t managed to attract many inhabitants of Porto in their tours. Having a website almost completely in English, as well as their name may have been an obstacle to reach more locals. This is one of the reasons that led them to rent a kiosque and be present in the street, offering maps and a space of discussion to people.

Getting to know wild, green and unknown Porto

As promised we did discover unsuspected places in Porto. One of our first stops was at Quinta Musas da Fontinha. It is an association, near Faria Guimarães metro station, which has been opening for a few years its large backyard to local associations willing to grow products there, in a sustainable way of course ! It is also a very surprising, wild and a bit crazy place to see. The ruins that you see on these pictures are what’s left of an ilha.

During the last part of the tour we walked to the east of Porto, along the river. I had never been there and, as a matter of a fact, there is not much reason to, except to discover a beautiful abandoned green area along the old railways, with great views. Gui underlined the fact that these spaces are likely to go through great transformations in the next decade, if the movement of gentrification and rehabilitation of the city center keeps going.

img_6221img_6228img_6238img_6234

 

To conclude, this tour allowed me to understand the tremendous impact that the economic crisis and the austerity measures had had on Porto but also on the alternative movements of the city. Since 2014, the protest movements have considerably decreased in Porto and the austerity measures have been slightly softened. Nevertheless going on this tour made me see that Porto is still facing important issues, as well as that these alternative movements are trying to overcome the challenge of reaching a wider audience and recreating a popular dynamic around their fights.

Also, as a “Portuense” told me on the tour :

” They are so many secrets, unexpected spaces like that in Porto, this city is way more beautiful than you first think it is.” (NB: I already thought it was really beautiful)


Em Português

No domingo passado, eu participei num « Worst tour » do Porto. Este tour foi organizado para o primeiro aniversário da associação ContraBando, que “é um espaço aberto à comunidade, de gente inconformada que vê na cultura uma forma de encontro, auto-organização, ativismo e participação.”

O que é a ContraBando ?

ContraBando nasceu em 2015, da reunião de vários associações e coletivos de ativistas de esquerda. Este coletivo organiza, no seu espaço, muitos eventos para desenvolver a implicação política dos Portuenses: debates, conferências, filmes, etc. A principal ação que eles organizaram até agora foi o Festival Feminista do Porto, em outubro passado, que conseguiu mobilizar um publico bastante  numeroso. Ele deveria repetir-se brevemente.

O que são os “worst tours” ?

Os “worst tours” são um grupo de 3 arquitetos do Porto, que começaram a fazer “tours” alternativos na cidade no fim de 2012. O objetivo deles é mostrar a todos: turistas, Portuenses, Portugueses, os resultados da crise e das medidas da austeridade, impostos pela União Europeia. Além disso, os “worst tours” falam sobre o processo recente de gentrificação, em relação com a subida do turismo. Mas os tours são também sobre “tascas e associações e hortas e centros comunitários e escolas e bairros e ruas e tascas e miradouros e praias e cafés e  concertos e praças para conhecer.”

Há alguns meses, eles decidiram tornar-se uma associação e arrendar um quiosque, no Jardim S. Lázaro, para ficar na rua e dirigir-se aos Portuenses diretamente.

Durante o “worst tour”, eu descobri vários lugares lindos, inesperados, um pouco escondidos e um pouco loucos : um jardim espontâneo partilhado pela associação Quinta Musas da Fontinha perto de Faria Guimarães, as margens verdes do Douro a leste da Ponte D. Luís, algumas ilhas na rua de S. Victor…

Por tudo isso, acho que participar num “worst tour” pode ser muito interessante para todos, mesmo que vocês não partilhem de todas as ideias deles.


Practical details: 

All tours starts in the square of Marques.

You shall one tour from their website, in which 4 types are proposed: ilhas, trades, sites that have been occupied, romantic period / public participation housing projects. Nevertheless, Pedro and Gui are flexible and adapt to the interests of the people.

There is no fixed price, which means that you can give whatever you feel like to.

Contacts:

http://theworsttours.weebly.com/

Find them in their yellow and arty Kiosque in Jardim San Lazoro

contra.obando.porto@gmail.com

https://www.facebook.com/ContraBANDOPorto/?fref=ts

https://www.facebook.com/hortaquintamusasdafontinha/

NEY MATOGROSSO SHOW: Aware of the signs!

aa

Hey! One of the biggest names in Brazilian music, Ney Matogrosso, is back to show live with his new album, “Watch out for signs” in October, Porto and Lisbon. And I went to his concert with Anouck on Sunday October 2nd 2016, 9:30 pm at Coliseu Porto, 

Ney de Souza Pereira (born August 1, 1941, in Bela Vista, Mato Grosso do Sul), widely known as Ney Matogrosso, is a flamboyant Brazilian singer. (more info)

14522505_10153709016485916_1118029416_o

I didn’t know him before the concert but when we entered the impressive Coliseu I realized how excited people looked like. The second thing I noticed was that most of the audience was over 70 years old. Yes, a big hall full of old people watching him with true love in their eyes. I understood it better when I learned, after the show that he was already 75. Incredible when you see the performance he delivered on Sunday.

14513719_10153709016410916_625308963_o

He is a truly unique showman, the performance is not only about his music but also about his  excentric costumes (black and silver extremely tight pants, incredible wigs, high heels),  and his legendary very sensual / sexual dance moves. He even did something close to a strip tease in the middle of the show and the audience seemed to appreciate it a lot, even the stuck-up lady sitting next to us.

Besides, Ney has an outstanding stage presence, captivating vocals mixed with the most incredible Samba dancing skills. When he looks at the audience you feel as if he is looking at you.

14528433_10153709016190916_218662369_n

As foreigners, French and Turkish, it was nice to see the performance of a Brazileiro in Porto. 

The standing ovation at the end was actually touching. It was amazing.

 

Coliseu do Porto: 

R. de Passos Manuel 137, 4000-385 Porto

Tel: 22 339 4940

Website: http://www.coliseu.pt/

Merve